Almora, a picturesque hill station in the Kumaon region of Uttarakhand, is a centre of culture, history, and economic activity in this part of the state. Nestled on a ridgeline at roughly 2,000 metres above sea level, Almora is a beauty to behold. With endless undulating hills in its vicinity and the majestic Himalayas stretching endlessly to the north, it casts a subtle, lasting vibe the moment you set foot on its land.

Here, in this write-up, I take you on a culinary trail, nudging your tastebuds as I deep-dive into some of the iconic sweet shops of this beautiful hill station.

1^st Stop | Lala Joga Lal Sah | Where it all started

The surname Sah is common in Almora and the surrounding areas. Traditionally a business community, the Sahs owned much of Almora’s trade in the 19th century. After the Anglo-Nepalese War, when the British took over the region, they encouraged members of this community to expand to other towns, including Nainital, where they set up shops and businesses. Even today, the Sahs remain prominent in both these hill stations.

It was in the late 19^th century, around 1865, that a gentleman named Lala Joga Lal Sah, invented a sweet that would go on to become Almora’s signature delicacy (which among many of us, finds its following in even the current Prime Minister of India). Made of khoya (refined, reduced milk) and coated with tiny sugar crystals—locally referred to as baal—this creation came to be called Bal Mithai.

Some believe the recipe came from Nepal and merely popularized here, while others insist it was truly an Almora innovation, crafted with milk sourced from the neighbouring villages. Whatever the origin, it is widely accepted that Lala Joga Lal Sah introduced and perfected it, giving the town its most famous culinary identity.

Such was its charm that even the British officers developed a fondness for it. Old journals mention that they often carried packets of Balmithai back to Britain during their holidays or postings. Its popularity back then was immense, and even today, the sweet continues to hold the same pull, enjoyed with equal rigour and affection.

Cut to today, as I ask about the shop, the current owner, Mr. Nikhil Sah, a fifth-generation custodian, proudly speaks of carrying forward the rich legacy left behind by his ancestors.  

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Time to move to the next shop | Heera Singh (HS) & Jeevan Singh (JS)

Another iconic and age-old sweet shop is located just a stone’s throw from Lal Joga Lal Sah’s shop. It serves mouthwatering sweets that are tempting enough to draw you in. Established by two brothers (HS and JS) in 1887, the shop has been delighting customers with iconic treats such as Bal Mithai, Singauri, and Chocolate.

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Kheem Singh Mohan Singh | The Most Famous of All

This shop, perhaps the most celebrated of them all, has taken the iconic Bal Mithai to far and wide – so much so that even the current Prime Minister is said to have tasted its flavour.

It is believed that Kheem Singh and Mohan Singh once apprenticed at Lala Joga Sah’s shop, where they learned the art of sweet-making. Later, they set up their own establishment near the bus stand. The strategic location proved vital — as travelers passing through Almora often bought Bal Mithai here, carrying it to different parts of the country. This way, the shop built a reputation beyond Almora, earning recognition unmatched by even other equally skilled local sweet makers.

Today, the shop continues to thrive. As I stand there getting a few boxes of their famous Chocolate packed, the current owner, Mr. Tanmay Singh, grandson of Mohan Singh, cheerfully manages a steady stream of customers, all eager to carry home a piece of their legacy.

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The Unnamed Jalebi Shop | Karkhana Bazaar

Indeed, this shop has no name. and it hasn’t had one since it first opened over 80 years ago. Famous for its doodh – jalebi, this place is always packed with eager customers waiting to grab a plate or take away fresh jalebis the moment they are lifted off the giant kadhai. It was started by Mr. Keshav Dutt Joshi (popularly known as Keshav Halwai) and the legacy continued through 3 generations of his family until about 5 years ago, when the shop was leased  to Mr. Vinod Singh. He has kept the legacy alive – retaining the shop’s old-world style and atmosphere, offering visitors a glimpse of what it must have looked like many decades ago.

Has the taste changed ? Locals insist – “No”.  The shop is centrally located on Thana Bazaar road, just a short walk past the iconic Lohe ka Sher landmark.

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Chaudhary Chat & Tent House – Khazanchi Mohalla

A tiny but iconic eatery tucked away in Khazanchi Mohalla, this place has been delighting locals and visitors with tangy street food for over 35 years.

The Aloo-Tikki Chaat, topped generously with chhole and a mix of sweet, spicy, and tangy chutneys, is their signature dish and a must-try if you want a break from Almora’s sweet-heavy culinary tradition.

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I hope you enjoyed this culinary trail of Almora and a glimpse into the history intertwined with its flavors. On your next visit, take time to stroll through the winding bylanes of the town, savor these timeless cuisines, admire the traditional Kumaoni architecture, and pay homage at its famous temples. Almora is not just a destination — it’s an experience that lingers long after you leave.