I recently made a short visit to the revered Surkanda Devi Temple. Located in Tehri district, the temple is roughly 33 km from Mussoorie and about 5 km from Dhanaulti. Perched (at roughly 2,750 metres altitude) atop the highest mountain peak in the vicinity, this majestic temple offers not only divine blessings and a deep sense of spirituality but also breathtaking 360-degree views of the landscape, stretching as far as the eye can see.

This place holds special importance among the people of the region, who throng here to seek the blessings of Goddess Sati. It is considered a ‘Shakti Peeth,’ and it is believed that Sati’s head fell at this very site. In fact, ‘Surkanda’ translates to ‘Sati’s Head.’ Once you arrive here, whether by cable car or on foot, the moment you step onto the flat courtyard, the aura around you is simply enthralling, pulling you into a divine realm. The clatter of the temple bells—a high-pitched, soothing, and rhythmic tone—blends perfectly with the soft whispers of the flowing wind, carrying this mystical charm far and wide, into the deep valleys and across the undulating mountains.

Arriving at Kaddukhal village

If you are planning to visit the temple, your first stop will be this tiny and quiet village of Kaddukhal. This village is situated along the main highway connecting Mussoorie to Dhanaulti ,and further on to Kanatal and Chamba. A few shops are lined up near the temple entrance, and if you are travelling by your own vehicle, you will need to find a parking spot. On weekends, holidays and especially on important religious occasions, getting a parking spot can be challenging.  My intention isn’t to discourage you, but this is something to keep in mind if you’re visiting on days when crowds are expected.

From here, everyone must walk the first hundred meters. The path is inclined but manageable. After this, you’ll reach a counter where you can purchase a cable car ticket that takes you straight up the hill to the temple. The round-trip fare per person is INR 225. However, the cable car does not operate during adverse weather conditions such as strong winds, heavy rain, or snowfall, so it’s important to keep this in mind while planning your visit. But if you’re up for the challenge, the path is yours to tread (trekking).

The day we arrived here (14th February), the sun was shining bright above, the sky was spotless, yet the wind was in good flow, its subdued tone—a faint murmur—clearly audible to my ears. The cable car was, therefore, not functional, and all the visitors had to embark on foot. We had no complaints—we love to walk—and were on our way, thumping our boots on the ground, scrambling across the winding path ahead.

As you gain altitude, you begin to witness the vast expanse around you. The wind will hammer your face, the sun will try to obstruct your view, but the landscape will undoubtedly captivate your imagination. The distant chime of the temple bells will propel you to inch ahead, and the scent of early rhododendron flowers, blooming here and there along your circuitous path, will enthrall you.

The one-way distance is 1.5 to 2 km (taking anywhere between 45 minutes to 1.5 hours) and follows a steep incline. However, the path is well-built, with multiple resting points providing adequate relief and comfort to pilgrims and visitors alike.

Once you arrive at the top, on the northern end, an endless stretch of snow-capped peaks (the mighty Himalayas) unfolds in its pristine form. The towering cliffs of the revered Bandarpoonch range – the source of the holy Yamuna River, beneath which lies the Yamunotri temple, appeared so close and divine. Even parts of distant Dehradun can be seen from the temple top. We paid our obeisance to Goddess Sati and then spent some-time absorbing the divine feeling the place offered.

About the temple

The temple has a simple architectural design and is built using wood and stone. The complex houses several other idols dedicated to Hanuman, Shiv-Parvati and Bhairov Ji. A major fair is held every year on Ganga Dussehra (which falls in May or June). The fair is held over a period of upto 3 days, and witnesses’ devotees from across the region and beyond thronging the temple to seek the divine blessings of Surkanda Devi.

Temple timings

• Summer Period | 7 AM – 12 noon and then 12:30 PM until 8 PM
• Winter Period | 8 AM – 12 noon and then 12:30 PM until 7 PM

What else to visit around? Stay options

If you are staying in Mussoorie, a little more than a half-day trip combining Dhanaulti and Surkanda Devi Temple can be a great choice. In the neighbouring Kanatal, roughly 9 km from Kaddukhal, there are places that organize adventure activities.

You can drive further to Chamba, a bustling Garhwali town in Tehri. A 30-minute drive (roughly 19 kms away) from Chamba will lead you to the famous Tehri Lake, which is increasingly becoming a sought-after destination among visitors. It’s a gigantic reservoir formed by the waters of the Bhagirathi and Bhilangna rivers, offering numerous water sports activities.

Stay options

All along this route, there is no shortage of hotels and homestays. If you’re looking for a nice place to stay, Kanatal can be a great option—nestled in nature with breathtaking views all around. You can also find numerous accommodation options in Dhanaulti.

How to get here?

As mentioned earlier, Kaddukhal is the base location for visiting Surkanda Devi Temple. Google map link of Kaddukhal – Click here

Place	Distance	Approx Time
Dehradun (Clock Tower)	62 kms	2.5 – 3.5 hours (depends on traffic situation)
Mussoorie	32 kms	1.5 hours
Dhanaulti	7 kms	15 minutes
Kanatal	9 kms	22 minutes
Chamba	22 kms	45 minutes

The road to Kaddukhal is open throughout the year and remains in excellent condition. From here, visitors need to walk about 100 meters to reach the cable car ticket counter. If you prefer to hike all the way to the temple, there is no charge—simply continue along the well-paved, winding, and gradually rising path.

We come to the end of this post. And I hope you enjoyed reading it.