It was the first morning of this year, January the 1st. The sun shone brightly above in a spotless blue sky, gently casting its rays on the mountain slopes of Mussoorie and spreading warmth. As I gazed into the valley below, it resembled an endless sea of mist – a pristine white blanket enveloping the entire doon valley and the lively city of Dehradun. While on the northern end of the town, the clear sky offered me breathtaking views of the towering Himalayas in the distance. They stood majestic, so vivid and striking that it felt as though I could reach out, place my finger on them, and trace their contours.
It was still early morning, and Mall Road was relatively quiet except for a handful of rickshaw pullers waiting to ferry passengers from one end to the other. Near Hakman’s Hotel or where the ropeway counter stands, my eyes fell upon a glass-covered box housing a giant manual projector -perhaps an effort by the local administration to spotlight Mussoorie’s theatrical legacy, which has somewhere been lost to time.
As you scan the image above, you can almost sense the vibrant history of the numerous cinema halls that once thrived here—the curtain raisers, the excitement they brought to the town, the crowds flocking to watch motion pictures (both English and Hindi), cheering during action scenes, and indulging in playful mischief when the moment called for it. Fast forward to today, and a stroll through the entire town will reveal just one functional single-screen theatre. It’s a tragic tale of a town that once proudly hosted so many bustling cinema halls on this tiny stretch of land, now overshadowed by a sea of hotels, restaurants, and shops selling almost anything under the sun.
Picture Palace
The other end of the Mall Road is often referred to as the Picture Palace end. Once a thriving cinema hall in Kulri Bazaar, the Picture palace was built in the early 20th century (in 1912) and served as a prominent hub of entertainment, frequented by affluent Indians and British officials. It was the 1st electricity powered cinema hall in Mussoorie and was therefore, also dubbed “The Electric Picture Palace”. Today, its shutters are permanently down, and the building stands neglected, a sad reminder of its glorious past. While the Mall Road always buzzes with the activity of tourists and vehicular noise, the worn-out structure exudes an air of quiet desolation, unable to reconcile with the type of chaos that now envelops its surroundings.
Location – https://maps.app.goo.gl/He6JskzdtMiqzwTv8
Rialto Cinema
A dilapidated building, just a short walk inward from the Mall road near the famous Cambridge bookstore, unveils yet another sorry picture of what was once a bustling hub for moviegoers. Rialto cinema hall, built in 1929 by Mr. P C Hari, was nother sought-after venue for entertainment enthusiasts. However, with the advent of the cable TV and VCRs, its popularity began to dwindle, and the situation worsened by the early 1990s. Mr. Vikas Hari, grandson of Mr. PC Hari, continued his efforts to keep the cinema hall operational until its curtains and shutters were permanently closed in December 2002, marking a tragic end. A lone building, now in shambles, stands in a melancholic state, as if in solitary confinement. It is disheartening to see what has become of it, and one can only imagine how glittering and lively it must have been in its heyday – full of noise, excitement, and joy. As my eyes scanned the interiors, it was easy to establish where the screen must have stood and the sloped seating area, once filled with happy faces of vacationers enjoying a film during their visit to Mussoorie. Now the premises appear to serve as a parking lot, with crumbling walls and a screen that still stands, but is now cloaked in dirt, sadness, and sorrow.
Location – https://maps.app.goo.gl/DEBzziVGzjwzniVL6
I felt a deep sense of regret for what has become of Mussoorie. While the town still buzzes with the happy smiles of visitors, the Landour clock tower continues to chime at the passing of every hour, the birds still flock about with their melodious hums and squeaks, the cool air tantalizes the nostrils, and on a clear, bright, and sunny morning, the Himalayas still appear fresh and rejuvenated, just as they must have been decades ago.
I took a detour and treaded along the Camel’s Back trail, where I witnessed the endless contours of the mountains. Behind them stood the giant Himalayas, topped with fresh snow, perhaps from the day before. They looked lovely and pure, and for a change, unlike what I had witnessed at the Picture Palace and Rialto, I felt a sense of pride that at least something had remained untouched, relatively pure, and intact – the mighty Himalayas. From here, you can catch sight of peaks in Himachal Pradesh and a vast repository of the Western Garhwal Himalayas including peaks such as Bhrigupanth, Shrikand, the Gangotri ranges and Bandarpoonch.
Lastly, I wanted to visit the only functional cinema hall in the town. Nestled among numerous shops, it could be easily missed if you weren’t already that this was your intended destination.
Ritz Cinema (formerly Vasu and before that, Majestic Cinema)
Like an oasis in the desert, Ritz stands as the only cinema hall in town, offering solace to locals and visitors eager to quench their thirst for a film. Previously known as Vasu Cinema, and before Independence as Majestic Cinema, it was once a highly sought-after venue in town, hosting plays, silent films, and later, talkies.
Location – https://maps.app.goo.gl/faVeTBiY2P87ZQaq9
Night was swiftly crawling in, overtaking the daylight. Up here, the sky remained clear, with Mussoorie’s Winterline casting an orangish hue on the horizon. Below, in the valley, the thick sea of mist lingered, persistently refusing to lift, adding to the gloom of the evening. Its sombre mood seemed to complement the lost glory of these crumbling structures that once stood as vibrant centres of entertainment in the town.
As we come to the end of this write-up, I sincerely hope you enjoyed reading it.
Pointers;
1. Planning your next visit to Mussoorie? – you may want to take a walk to these abandoned structures. The google map link will guide your path. Easily walkable if you are putting up around the mall road area
2. Some articles that I read while penning down this post
- https://www.dailypioneer.com/2017/state-editions/mussoories-has-left-its-golden-era-behind.html
- https://garhwalpost.in/mussoories-matinee-musings/
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Travel diaries from Uttarakhand 
Chanced upon your article. Brilliant write-up, with equally fascinating photos to match. Kudos – do keep up the good work. Best wishes from Calcutta.
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