On a brilliantly sunny November Sunday, the irresistible urge to embark on another mountain hike seized me. This time, I opted for a brief trek to Kartik Swami Temple, situated in the Chamoli district of Uttarakhand at an altitude of about 3000 metres. The sun splattered its bright radiance, the whiteness of the Himalayas was sharp, with no speck of clouds in the turquoise blue sky. It was a joyful day, and the views from the summit were indeed breathtaking. Let me take you through this intriguing trek, named after Kartik, the warrior son of Shiva and Parvati.

Before we delve deeper, here are the key highlights of this trek:

• Stunning Himalayan Views: Enjoy a panoramic 180-degree view of the Garhwal Himalayas, with the impressive Chaukhamba peaks and other prominent summits like Thalaisagar, Kedardome, Mandani, and Trishul. Even the mightier Nanda Devi peak can be observed in the far distance.

• Perfect backdrop: The temple against the Himalayan backdrop creates a captivating scene, especially for photographers.

• Easy trail through lush green forests: A relatively simple 3.5-kilometer trek each way, taking around 1 hour and 15 minutes for each direction. The trail is surrounded by dense Rhododendron forests. The final 500 meters reveal an irresistible beauty.

They say that October is typically the best month to be in the mountains after the departure of the monsoons. The landscapes appear refreshing, bathed in a distinct and sharp radiance from all that nature has to offer. November marks the onset of winter, but the weather can still be pleasant. This year, I was fortunate enough to experience a perfect weather in November. So, the weekend after Diwali, I promptly decided to make this short 2-day trip from Dehradun.

How does the itinerary look like?

On Saturday early afternoon, I set off from Dehradun in my car. Except for Badrinath, the remaining three dhams had already closed, and so, the vehicular activity was minimal on the Char Dham highway. The drive was mostly smooth, and I enjoyed the drive, meandering through the mountainous curves and adoring the changing hues of the sun as it continued to go low on the horizon. The map below highlights the route followed until the point from where we embark on the trek.

The road from Dehradun until Tilwara (and slightly beyond) is a proper highway, providing a comfortable drive except for a few patches where construction work is currently underway. A few kilometres beyond Tilwara (near Rampur), we take a narrow uphill road to Kanakchauri. This road passes through a sizeable town named Chopta (please don’t confuse this Chopta with the one from where you undertake the Tungnath trek). Continuing on this road (Chopta – Pokhri road) leads you to Kanakchauri village. You can park your vehicle here and then embark on the foot journey to the Kartik Swami temple. The gradient is easy, with only a few patches of steep inclines, making this trek suitable even for amateurs. About 3 kms into the trek (and just 500 metres before the summit point), you will encounter a group of temporary sheds housing shops selling pooja materials and/or food. The stretch from here is steep, with numerous stairs that will lead you to the summit. As I climbed the stairs, I was mesmerized by the scenery around me. A cool breeze brushed against me and the griffons flying above seemed closer, revealing some of their features more clearly.

The story behind this temple

There are few temples dedicated to Kartik or Kartikeya and finding them in Uttarakhand is even rarer. In Hindu mythology, Kartikeya is regarded as the son of Shiva and Parvati. According to the popular narrative, Shiva instructed his two sons, Ganesha and Kartikeya, to circumnavigate the Universe, and the one who completed it first would have the honor of worshiping their parents. Ganesha won by encircling his parents, deeply valuing their significance. Kartikeya, displeased with losing, is believed to have given his bones to his father and flesh to his mother. Legend has it that this temple houses Kartikeya’s bones, making it a significant pilgrimage site for numerous devotees.

Throughout the trek, you’ll notice bindis and bangles tied to the trees. Married women use this practice to express their reverence to the van devis (forest deities). Additionally, there’s a dedicated ‘Van devi’ temple a short distance before reaching the summit or the Kartik Swami temple.

I completed the entire trail in about 3 hours including spending approximately 30 minutes absorbing the ambiance at the summit and capturing the experience on my camera. It was now time to head back to Dehradun.

I hope you enjoyed the post.

Some other important things that may help you plan this hike.

• Staying overnight at Tilwara or Rudraprayag may be a wise idea as options at Kanakchauri are limited and the road beyond Tilwara is narrow.

• I stayed at the Inderlok Hotel at Tilwara. It was basic accommodation, but the room was clean. As it’s non yatra season now, I paid INR 1,000/- for a night. They even run a restaurant called Yaari café, and the menu has a variety of options to choose from. Another option is to stay at the GMVN Tilwara property, which is only a 100 metres ahead of this hotel.

• Start early on the day of the hike. It’s always good to be early in the mountains.

• Carry a water bottle with you on the hike. Only 3 kms into the trek (or just 500 metres before the summit) can you find any shack.

Google map link for Kanakchauri village – https://maps.app.goo.gl/9Mgy4viJsoVBCeU57