It was late afternoon on Saturday.  The hillslopes surrounding Mussoorie were shrouded under the cover of a heavy and gathering mist. A slit in the clouds allowed a handful of sunrays to burst through and gently caress the vibrant green patches below. The entire landscape presented a mystical allure as shadows and radiance gracefully entwined with each other.

Seeking respite from the scorching heat of peak summers in the plains, I carried myself to Landour, a quaint little neighbourhood of Mussoorie, which offers cooler climate, regardless of the time of year. Once in Mussoorie, I prefer to walk about, enjoying the happenings around me, breathing in fresh and cool air, and soaking in whatever nature has to offer. During this season, a myriad of flowers bloom with grace and elegance, showcasing their exquisite beauty in abundance. And the constant chattering of the bulbuls and thrushes perched on the delicate branches of the deodars or oaks only add to the ensuing milieu.

I strolled along the lively streets of Landour Bazar, steadily ascending the winding and steep pathway leading up to Mullingar – a bustling residential complex recognized as the very first permanent structure erected in Mussoorie in the distant year of 1825. As I reached the final bend that would have guided me towards Mullingar, my eyes fell on a petite tailor shop. Within its confines, a burly individual (probably in his late 60s or early 70s) sat with legs folded, adorned in a traditional Garhwali jacket and a distinctive topi (cap), characteristic of the region.

As I cast a deeper glance, I observed that the shop had just enough room to accommodate a handful of garments, a manually operated sewing machine and the person himself. I scrambled across the road to engage in a conversation. On one of the sidewalls, hung a photo frame displaying colourful Garhwali Topi worn by different people. And instantly, I could recognize a few of them. These included some famous resident writers of Mussoorie, politicians from the neighbouring Dehradun city, artists, etc.

I was greeted by a deep and commanding voice, which proudly proclaimed, “Every cap that you see in the frame has been personally handcrafted by me right here in this shop”. The revelation was truly captivating, considering that this Garhwali cap had garnered significant attention ever since it graced the head of our Prime Minister during the Republic Day celebrations of 2022.

Jagtam Das, the proprietor of this tailor shop has been stitching all kinds of clothes and in particular Garhwali jackets and caps for a long, long time. As our conversation deepens, he proudly shares that about 35-40 years ago, he set-up a shop at this place, having migrated from his ancestral village near the town of Thatyur, in the neighbouring district of Tehri. This is the vocation he has been pursuing ever since.

In 2016 or thereabout, Mr. Sameer Shukla, the founder of Soham Himalayan Centre – an organization dedicated to Himalayan Heritage & Culture, was on a look-out for someone who could make authentic traditional Garhwali cap. After hobbling around for a while, and having enquired with numerous people, he was finally referred to Jagtam Das. Ever since then Jagtam has been getting huge orders from Soham Himalayan Centre, turning fabric into his signature Garhwali Caps.

Upon careful observation of the cap, one would notice the embellishments of a Brahmakamal flower and a vibrant, diagonally placed colorful strip. The team at Soham Himalayan Centre deserves applause for giving the cap a distinct identity as well as for popularizing it. Indeed, they have a huge role to play in giving the Garhwali Topi a due recognition. If you take a stroll along any of the bustling bazars of Mussoorie (especially those on the mall road), one can easily observe numerous street carts and shops proudly showcasing and selling Garhwali Topi.

Jagtam expresses gratitude for the acknowledgement he received from Mr. Shukla, and he fondly recalls the moment when he was honored with an award during a ceremony held in 2017 at the Shaheed Sthal in Mussoorie. As I inquire about the quantity he has produced thus far, he happily responds with a number in thousands. To substantiate his claim, he humbly presents a notebook that meticulously records the daily orders he receives. According to Jagtam, during periods of peak demand, he crafts around 50 caps a day by himself, and if necessary, other family members including his son, also lend a hand to meet the demand.

Despite the sunken eyes and delicately etched lines on his face, unmistakable signs of aging, I was startled to see how content he appeared with his simple accomplishments of life. While many people now recognize him as a celebrity of sorts, I was truly astounded by the humility that radiated from him.

I hope you enjoyed the post on the Humans of Landour.

Notes

• If you happen to be in Landour and wish to meet Mr. Jagtam, his shop is located adjacent to Lotte’s Homebaked Goods & Café.

Google Map link – https://goo.gl/maps/3CG6osK3RuCZh2e67

• A visit to Soham Himalayan Centre can be undertaken to better understand the local cultures and traditions of Uttarakhand
• Landour is drenched in a wealth of history and is also becoming a sought-after place for café lovers. I have written a dedicated post on Landour and what it offers. If you wish to read it, click here.

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